How to build in the country with your own hands. Country house (simple and inexpensive): what type and project to choose, construction, nuances. Construction of a frame structure

Dacha construction in our country began on the Soviet 6 acres with the minimization of buildings and the preservation of most of the land for agricultural work. In those days, gardeners completely managed with sheds for storing agricultural equipment, change of clothes and shoes. Now, most of the owners of suburban areas go there for recreation, sometimes completely passive. Let's see what kind of garden buildings for giving in favor with modern summer residents.

Arrangement of a summer cottage

In this article, we will not talk about the construction of the main country house, but about what buildings can be organically included in the design of the site. Without some of them, it is literally impossible to imagine a comfortable, complete rest from the bustle of the city.

fences

Let's start with the simplest, but necessary object on the site - fencing. It would seem that it could be easier, build yourself a fence, what you want and from what you want. Not at all, there is an instruction - a set of rules for the location of buildings in suburban areas.

With regard to fences, they are as follows:

• It is permissible to arrange fences at the boundaries of the plots with mesh or lattice ones with a height of not more than 1.5 m, in order to avoid shading neighboring plots.
• It is allowed to erect blind fences in that part of the site that overlooks the streets or driveways.

Attention!
The decision on this issue must be made at the general meeting of the members of the garden partnership.

Requirements for the location of buildings

Since we have already touched on this topic, we will state the main requirements of SNiP 30-02-97 * “Planning and building up the territories of horticultural (country) associations of citizens, buildings and structures”:

• Are common. The distance from the main house to the "red line" of the street is from 5 m, from the "red line" of the passage from 3 m. Household-type buildings at a distance of 5 m from both borders.

• Fire-fighting.
  The distances between the buildings of neighboring sections according to the rules of fire safety should be:
  • For concrete and stone structures, at least 6 m.
  • For buildings with wooden floors from 8 m.
  • For wooden and frame buildings from 10 m.
• Sanitary regulations regulate the distances from buildings to the border of a neighboring site:
  • House - 3 m.
  • Facilities for keeping small animals and birds - 4 m.
  • Other buildings from 1 m, provided that the roof slope is directed to its site.

Within your site, you can place buildings at your discretion, but not in violation of sanitary standards:

• The distance from the latrine or place of keeping livestock to the residential building and basement must be at least 12 m.
• From a bath or a summer shower from 8 m.
• From the latrine or compost pit to the well at least 8m.

For your information!
SNiP dictates these norms of distances between summer cottages for plots of 6-8 acres.
They will not cause any difficulties for the owners of large lands.

gazebos

Perhaps the most desirable and popular buildings in the garden with their own hands are gazebos that allow you to give free rein to your creative imagination and fantasy. In such simple objects, you can realize your desire to build something on the hacienda with your own hands.

Arbors in the country are building a variety of:

• Stone.
• Brick.
• Wooden.
• Metal.
• Mixed type.
• from exotic materials.

It all depends on your personal preferences, abilities and material resources.

Interesting!
Now you can buy ready-made prefabricated or solid (depending on dimensions) structures.
These are real works of art, very beautiful, openwork, airy, despite the fact that they are made of metal.
The price of such products is certainly impressive.

Very often, gazebos are built immediately with built-in barbecue grills for cooking barbecue and other goodies in the fresh air.

Some even manage to arrange in the gazebo summer open or semi-open firewood, combined with city amenities:

• Summed up water.
• Sewerage.
• Power supply.

Bath

The next most popular building on a summer cottage is, of course, a bathhouse.

It is inferior in popularity to gazebos only because it requires large financial investments.

• The colorful log cabin of the bath will perfectly fit into the ensemble with the same house.
• A brick building for a steam room will look no less aesthetically pleasing.

Not being able, for some reason, to build a bathhouse on your site, do not deny yourself the pleasure of arranging an outdoor shower. Its design can be collapsible and, if necessary, easily relocated to another location.

Playgrounds and pools

Owners of large land can allocate a small area for the arrangement of a playground with slides, swings, and a sandbox.

Also, without being constrained in terms of the size of the site, you can arrange a pool:

• Stationary.
• Collapsible frame.
• Inflatable.

Outbuildings

Of course, not a single country residence can do without utility buildings:

• Cellars or cellars are needed to store products grown in the garden and in the garden, as well as preparations for the future in the form of jam, compotes, pickles and marinades.
• Sheds and firewood sheds will serve to store garden tools, the remains of building materials, a supply of firewood and other “needs” that are always present in the household.

Advice!
If you live outside the city all year round, and this does not go against your beliefs, it will be useful to have at least chickens on the farm.
Buildings for keeping birds are quite within the reach of any not lazy person and do not require special material investments, but how nice it is to get eggs for the family every day.

Greenhouses

Another type of buildings often found in summer cottages is greenhouses. Even those who do not want to maintain a large garden, spend a lot of time and effort on growing vegetables, will not give up a small greenhouse with early greens, cucumbers and strawberries.

Registration of suburban buildings

And a few more words about which structures require registration of a building on a garden plot. In principle, today there is no need to register garden houses and ancillary buildings on the site, except in cases of self-interest.

The expediency of consideration by the owner of the issue of registering ownership of garden and country houses occurs on the condition that:

• The total area of ​​the house without light, semi-open, open and unheated structures is from 50-70 square meters.
• The presence of a capital building with a service life of about 20-25 years, adapted for living all year round.

That is, we are talking about structures that require a building permit in accordance with the urban planning code.

In other cases, the rights of ownership and disposal of dacha property seem natural if there is an agreement with a gardening and dacha society (association). You can, at your own discretion, dispose of the dacha property in relation to donation, inheritance, sale, etc.

Conclusion

I would like to summarize - you can build garden buildings with your own hands, depending on whether you have a free piece of land, and whether there is a need for this. The main thing is to give preference to high-quality materials, from which the structure will come out reliable and durable.

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

They acquire dachas in different ways - they inherit them, buy plots with a house and remake or complete them for themselves, or buy land in an almost open field and begin to develop virgin lands. Just such a process puzzled one of our craftsmen, who decided to join the suburban life. And since the most effective way to save money is to do it yourself, that's exactly what he did, starting small - with a summer house in the country "for the first time."

• Country house 6×6 with a built-in terrace 4×3:
• project;
• foundation;
• water supply;
• box;
• internal work.

Country house 6×6 with a built-in terrace 4×3

Gonzik1

Last year I bought a plot in the field (like a new holiday village). The poles were installed, electricity was brought to the site (it took about two months to complete the paperwork), they put a shield on the pole with a meter, an automatic machine and a socket. This year, having saved up some money, he began construction. I decided to do everything with my own hands, because it's cheaper and more reliable.

Do-it-yourself country house project

The craftsman created the dacha construction project over the winter with his own hands, according to his idea - this is the first module to which he will later add another one, combining both parts into a single structure. With the help of a special program, he made a drawing that made it possible to accurately calculate the required amount of building materials.

Foundation

Since the house is lightweight, using frame technology and on one floor, Gonzik1 gave preference to a columnar foundation of special concrete blocks (20 × 20 × 40 cm). Also, his choice was influenced by the low groundwater level (GWL) in the country and the excellent condition of such foundations under neighboring buildings. Depending on the level, I used one or two blocks per pole - I removed the fertile layer, poured a sand cushion, laid the blocks. The plane was held with the help of a hydraulic level. According to the craftsman, he appreciated this simple tool - it is cheap and the measurement accuracy is excellent. The pillars were covered with roofing material for waterproofing. With the help of relatives, the foundation was ready in three days.

Water supply

There is nowhere to take the central water supply in the field, so the problem of water supply is a personal matter for every summer resident. Our craftsman originally planned to drill a well. Trial drilling at thirty-six meters was unsuccessful - instead of water, dense black clay went. The drillers reported that only an artesian well of about ninety meters would help, voiced a sky-high price. Gonzik1 I got upset, imagining the scale of the problem, and decided to dig a well, as the foreseeable future showed - the right decision. Three days of work, ten rings - a column of water for one and a half rings, is restored in an hour and a half.

Box

The strapping is two-layered - at the bottom there is a board 100 × 50 mm, on top - 100 × 40 mm, impregnated with fire and biological protection, the strapping elements were connected to each other with nails (100 and 120 mm). The strapping was laid on top of the roofing material and fixed to the posts with anchors.

All frame posts were also assembled from a 100 × 40 mm board on nails, the walls were raised right in place using temporary jibs. On the ground they collected only a skate, after raising it to the roof. This stage took another four days.

Next, they mounted rafters, wind boards, pulled the wind protection, over the counter-lattice and crate. As a roofing, our craftsman chose metal tiles.

Gonzik1

I read that no matter which side the sheets are laid on, they are more often laid from left to right. It turned out that no, the tile is laid from right to left, otherwise the next sheet will have to be brought under the previous one, which is extremely inconvenient, especially when installing alone. The weather was not very good, it was drizzling, there was wind, he moved along the roof like a cat, trying to cling to the crate with his feet. All twelve sheets of tiles (115x350 cm) were laid in half a day.

After the tiles, hands reached the ground, because of which the floor logs were not fully laid. Gonzik1 I used a 50x50x4 mm corner, a 40x4 mm metal strip connection, plus a piece of self-supporting insulated wire (SIP).

Next, we covered the entire structure with a protective membrane, installed a door, laid a floorboard on the terrace, and proceeded to sheathing the facade with imitation timber. Cashing was immediately treated with protective impregnation. In the process of work, the craftsman made adjustments to the project - he made a third window, so there will be more light, and the view from the window is attractive.

Internal work

With the end of the holidays, the construction process slowed down as much as possible, since free weekends did not fall every week, but continued. I finished with the floor - rough on OSB logs, on top of a windproof membrane, between the logs of stone wool slabs, crate, and OSB again on it. The finish is linoleum. Also, the house got another window.

He brought electricity into the house, insulated the perimeter with stone wool, on top of a vapor barrier and lining as a cladding.

The finishing process continued according to the same algorithm, contrasting architraves on the window openings added decorativeness to the house. All interior walls will be lined with clapboard.

Gonzik1

There are no plans for a stove, a house for seasonal residence - spring, summer, autumn. I plan to hang electric convectors, I have no problems with electricity there, three phases, a new substation, 15 kW per plot.

For all those interested, the craftsman posted the calculation of materials (the entire used board is 6 meters long):

• foundation blocks 200×200×400 mm, 30 pieces;
• board 50x100 mm, 8 pieces (for the bottom layer of the strapping);
• board 40 × 100 mm, 96 pieces - about 8 pieces left;
• board 25 × 10 mm, 128 pieces - about 12 pieces left;
• timber 100 × 100 mm, 3 pieces;
• rail 25×50 mm, 15 pieces;
• timber imitation 18.5 × 146, 100 pieces - about 15 pieces left;
• insulation, stone wool 1200 × 600 × 100 mm, 28 packs (6 boards each) - one pack left;
• windproof membrane 1.6 m wide, 60 m² per roll, 3 rolls;
• vapor barrier 1.6 m wide, 60 m² per roll, 3 rolls - approx. 0.5 roll remaining;
• OSB 3 2500 × 1200 × 9 mm, 15 pieces (rough and finishing floor) - about 1.5 slabs remain;
• metal tile 350 × 115 cm, 12 sheets;
• lining 12.5 × 96 cm, 370 pieces (10 packs) - not the fact that enough, partially used for filing the toilet, and the walls are not finished yet;
• wooden windows 1000×1000 mm, 3 pieces;
• entrance metal door 2050×900 mm, 1 piece;
• protective impregnation for wood, 10 liters - the rest is 3 liters, but the house is covered with only one layer.

Taking into account independent construction and finishing, the estimate turned out to be quite budgetary.

Gonzik1

• Foundation - 2500 rubles.
• Boards on the frame, wind protection, vapor barrier, imitation of timber (exterior finish), lining (interior finish), insulation, etc. - 110,000 rubles.
• Metal tile - 20,000 rubles.
• Door - 13,200 rubles.
• Windows - 4,200 rubles x 3 = 12,600 rubles.
• Forwarding SIP to the house - 3000 rubles (with the cable itself).
• Impregnation - 3600 rubles.

The electrician is still just going to breed around the house, I think I’ll fit in 8-10 thousand. I don’t quote the cost of nails, screws, staples for a stapler, etc., because I don’t remember how much I bought. Total: about 165,000 rubles.

For another short but fruitful vacation, I finished with the electrics, finished the interior lining with clapboard and painting, made a set for the kitchen, completed the terrace. I laid a 100 × 40 mm board on the terrace, took an unplaned one, processed it with an electric planer, then covered it with impregnation in two layers. Over the past winter, everything is in place, nothing has led, it has not dried up and is not warped. The craftsman plans to finish building the second block, but this test of the pen is up to the mark - an excellent cottage for a family vacation.

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Each person who has acquired a small plot of land for a summer residence seeks to build a house in a short time, or a similar easily erected structure. So that there is a place where to relax after a hard day's work, or to hide from inclement weather. Well and to be arranged in the household plan naturally. Of course, it is desirable to build a house to accommodate the whole family, and guests who came for the weekend. The task is certainly grandiose, but quite doable if you have accumulated savings for the construction of a country house, because a large amount of new building material will be required.

If possible, you can hire hired workers to build this building.

Of course, this will significantly add financial costs for your family, and if this is not possible, you will have to build a country house with your own hands.

Basically, the owners of dachas build their houses with their own hands in order to save money for hiring a construction team and invite relatives and friends to the construction site to help, which by itself reduces the cost of building a building.

Even summer residents sometimes use second-hand materials that can be purchased at half the price compared to market prices, but this will reduce the durability of the structure, also by half.

When building his country house, the author decided not to save on the main material and buy everything on the construction market, so that it would be enough for a century and the house would stand for a long time, please his family and his guests with its comfort and aesthetic appearance.

Of course, wood was chosen as the main material for the construction, which could be better and more beautiful than wood. The author bought bars and boards at a local sawmill, which turned out to be much cheaper than in a hardware store.

Starting construction, I pre-drilled wells under the supporting pillars, inserted them and filled them with cement mortar. I made the binding of the pillars with boards and left for a day to dry the solution. Then he started building, step by step going to the cherished goal.

And so now let's take a closer look at how he built his country house, and what he needed for this.

Materials: board 30 mm, timber 100 by 100, timber 40 by 60, floorboard 50 mm, insulation, professional sheet, rail, fiberboard.
Tools: circular saw, drill, drill, screwdriver, hammer, shovel, electric planer, corner, ruler, tape measure, circular cut-off saw.

And so the first thing he invited was a neighbor and together they drilled wells to install poles.

Then he installed the posts, and filled the holes with cement mortar.

I made a screed at the bottom and at the top so that the pillars stood evenly, after a day after the solution had gained hardness, I proceeded to further construction.

The author makes the top harness.

Then proceeds to create the roof ridge.

Next, he makes the roof sheathing.

Shows the rafter attachment point.

The leftovers from sawing up will also come in handy somewhere.

Then proceeds to the installation of the roof from the professional sheet.

Then he moves on to the device of the floors of the house.

So it turned out a place to store boards from precipitation.

Preparing a batch of boards by spreading them on a circular saw.

And proceeds to finish the cornice.

Sheaths the walls with boards, and closes the gaps between the boards with slats.

Next comes the ceiling lining.

Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and their labor, but also land. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allows you to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.

Where to start

The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, a ready-made project is developed or selected for it, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.

What to build from?

Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a fully buried tape one (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. True, there is a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. So a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on your own.

The same situation arises with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and timber houses are shown in Fig.:

Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.

The easiest and fastest way to build a small house is to assemble it from a prefabricated panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental ability trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.

A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.

So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.

Project

An inexpensive garden and / or compact country house is best built according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard project of a garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.

How to choose easier and cheaper

However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and laying the foundation. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages are cut into soils that are diverse, but have one common property - their own sufficient connectivity, otherwise no one needs such a summer cottage. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight heel.

On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.

Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. In what circle should the project of a wooden house fit in the plan so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tramway” houses for narrow sections, without looking closely, on the foundation of a normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1

Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan.

Foundation

We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage.

Unburied

An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm.

Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2 if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week.

buried

The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken to the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring.

Note: there is no point in laying the TISE foundation for a light compact house - the "caps" of the TISE piles normally work in the ground only under a sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one.

Geoscrews

The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required.

A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmatory screw and also looks like it, see Fig.:

The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video:

Video: installation of a frame house

The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are huge:

• No preliminary geological surveys are required.
• Geo-screws can be wrapped in rather heavily clogged soil: a cobblestone or a piece of concrete with a child's head will push the screw to the side.
• Special equipment and access roads for it are not needed: 2 people with a crowbar or a home-made collar from a piece of pipe wrap up to 10 or more geo-screws per day.
• Preparatory earthworks are not required: the screw is simply placed with its end in the hole on the bayonet of the shovel and twisted. Align vertically when the pointed tip enters the ground by a third - half.
• Screwed geoscrews can be turned in/out to align the heads to the horizon.
• There is no need for a technical break for foundation settlement - construction can be continued as soon as the last screw is wrapped.
• An incorrectly wrapped screw can be unscrewed and wrapped again close to the old well.

Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil.

What house to build?

We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way:

1. House from a military kung;
2. House-hut;
3. Bungalow house;
4. Frame house.

When not to excess

KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle.

The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages:

• Excellent insulation - a stove the size of a desktop computer system unit heats the kung from the most severe frost.
• The price is more than an order of magnitude less than that of a construction change house, a residential container or a section of a modular country house.
• High resistance to external influences - warehouses, change houses and utility rooms made of kung have been standing almost without maintenance for more than 50 years, and they are not visible to demolition.
• Fire safety is built in.
• Built-in electrical wiring or channels for it, electrical input board (VS) and terminals for grounding connection.
• Ample opportunities for redevelopment, interior equipment and decoration (see below).
• No legal clearance or installation permit is required. Bought - brought - delivered - live.

It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones.

Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good.

The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation.

For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitation for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There, too, there are sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of their hands from such a kung, it turns out not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins.

Chalet

Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.:

There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all.

In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure:

Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house

But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of ​​heat loss of a house-hut is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung.

How to build a chalet

The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins):

1. They lay a columnar or pile screw (on geoscrews) foundation;
2. The supporting A-frames of the frame are assembled from boards (130 ... 150) x40 lying on the plaza - any fairly solid flat surface;
3. The assembled frames are stacked in order to check for skewness and in size, this is extremely important for a hut house;
4. The verified frames are transferred one by one to the foundation and laid flat with the sole in place;
5. Each frame transferred to the foundation is lifted with a rope, set vertically and fixed with temporary jibs;
6. When all the frames are right, they fix the frame in the corners - at the bottom with cornice boards (see below), at the top with a ridge run, also from a pair of boards;
7. When building a house more than 3x4 m, the frame is reinforced with additional longitudinal screeds;
8. At the puff level (cross tie of the A-frame), the ceiling is assembled; without it, the house will not be strong;
9. The floor of the house is assembled according to the usual technology for wooden houses;
10. Sheathe the wings of the frame with 40 mm boards lengthwise, highly preferably tongue-and-groove;
11. Assemble the frames of window and door openings;
12. Sheathe facades;
13. Produce other required construction work.

The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”.

Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.:

The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size.

Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed.

Bungalow and… bungalow

In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive.

However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right.

Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of half-timbered structures and frame with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages:

• In wooded areas with developed logging, it is cheaper, despite the increased consumption of material for sheathing, because. unseasoned low-quality materials are suitable for it (sheathing), up to unedged boards and waste in the form of slabs.
• The bungalow house is very different and can be built on a non-buried foundation on soils up to and including strongly heaving.
• In damp places, houses built using bungalow technology are very durable due to the fact that the penetration of atmospheric moisture into the sheathing is minimized: the upper ends of the boards are covered with roof overhangs.

The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps.

Bungalow like bungalow

Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat.

The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure:

Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters

The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies.

The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils.

Bungalow as technology

The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed.

Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure:

The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor.

Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken.

All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with triples (not in pairs!) Of nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step.

The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order:

1. Assemble the bottom frame on the foundation;
2. Racks are installed, aligned vertically and fixed with temporary braces;
3. Assemble the upper frame on racks;
4. Pioneer holes are drilled for the brackets (marking - by the brackets themselves at an angle of 45 degrees). The depth of the pioneer holes is 2/3 of the length of the mustache of the staple, the diameter is 3/4 of the diameter of the mustache;
5. The grooves are chosen under the shelves of brackets, because. staples must be recessed into the tree;
6. Staples are baited with a hammer;
7. Once again check the verticality of the racks and put the top steel fasteners;
8. Finish off the staples with a sledgehammer;
9. Produce wall cladding;
10. Temporary braces are removed and other work is done.

Skeletons

The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.:

The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:

Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology

The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig.

Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:

Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house

It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) .

In conclusion about the roof

The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth.

Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b):

In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve.

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