How to build a house from aerated concrete blocks yourself. Recommendations for independent construction of a house from aerated concrete blocks: from foundation to roof

Private house It is faster to build from aerated concrete, and many people prefer this material when building summer houses or cottages. Aerated concrete slabs are relatively easy to lay and, following the construction instructions, you can build your own country house, which will last for decades. Below we will tell you step by step how to build a house from aerated concrete from the foundation to the roof with your own hands.

Before you start construction country house, it is necessary to draw up and approve a project. This is due to the fact that in order to ensure the safety of residential buildings, house construction technology must be followed, taking into account the materials used. The estimate indicates:

• technical characteristics of aerated concrete;
• the nature of the reinforcement used to strengthen the structure;
• foundation type;
• slabs used for floors;
• construction plan.

It is important to use the building materials specified in the estimate and follow the construction stages. Of course, no one will force a cottage built in violation of building standards to be demolished. But a country house made of aerated concrete must be connected to communications (electricity, water, network gas), and this will be denied if the erected building does not comply with GOST.

Before building a house, you need to carefully calculate the costs

Preparatory work

In order not to overpay, you need to immediately calculate the materials for building a house. If the amount of gravel, crushed stone or piles depends on the nature of the foundation, then you can determine how much aerated concrete is needed using a simple formula:

• multiply the length and height of the wall;
• subtract the total size of door and window openings from the result obtained;
• calculate block parameters;
• divide the result obtained from multiplication and subtraction by the block size;
• multiply the result by the waste coefficient when cutting aerated concrete (5-15% - the more complex the structure configuration, the more waste there will be).

Using this formula, you can calculate aerated concrete for a 6*6 dacha and in order to build big house 100 sq. m. When using the proposed calculation method, you should take into account the thickness of the aerated concrete walls that will be laid. The formula is given for single masonry, and if you plan to lay it in 2 blocks, then the result obtained is multiplied by 2.

We should not forget about the solution. You need to calculate in advance the required amount of glue to build a house:

• calculate the size of blocks in a cube;
• We calculate the total volume of walls being erected minus openings;
• divide the total volume by the dimensions of the individual element.

On average, 1 m 3 requires 25 kg of glue (bag). Consumption is additionally affected by:

1. Density indicator. The denser the structure of the block, the less mortar is required for bonding.
2. The nature of the basis. Porous or rough surfaces increase adhesive consumption.
3. The size of the building element.

When building a house, large aerated concrete blocks are used for external walls, and smaller block elements are used to build interior lintels. This must be taken into account when calculating glue. Formula calculations may seem boring and unnecessary, but they are necessary. By planning in advance the construction of a house made of aerated concrete with your own hands from “A” to “Z”, you can reduce construction costs.

Calculation of the required number of blocks is an integral stage of construction

Marking

Before you start building a private house from aerated concrete, you need to mark out the place for the foundation. Following construction plan, they do it like this:

• internal corners are set with pegs;
• the driven stakes are connected to each other with twine;
• Marks corresponding to the outer corners of the building are set and also connected with twine.

The result is 2 lines, the distance between which is equal to the width of the outer wall. If the house has internal walls made of cellular concrete, then a similar operation is repeated inside the outlined area. But this is not enough. The foundation and aerated concrete must be protected from dampness and sudden temperature changes. To do this they create:

1. Blind areas. Unlike foundations, they do not require serious deepening; to install them, it is enough to remove the fertile layer of soil.
2. Base. To raise hygroscopic concrete blocks, use moisture-resistant materials (concrete, brick, etc.). This increases the strength of the structure.

The standard height of the plinth is 0.3-0.5 m. But if you listen to the advice of professionals, experienced builders recommend building a higher plinth. This will not only increase the strength of the building, but also make the appearance of the building more elegant. The basement structure is finished with tiles, decorative stone or covered with plaster.

Filling the blind area is needed to waterproof the building

Which foundation is better for a house made of aerated concrete?

Even though aerated concrete blocks have a relatively light weight, there is no need to take the choice of foundation for future housing lightly, choosing the cheapest option. Let's consider the main types of foundations:

1. Slab. Reinforced concrete slabs are considered the most durable and reliable. They can withstand the heavy weight of a residential structure, are resistant to temperature changes and high humidity. The disadvantage is the high cost of the plates. One-story house IR It is recommended to build on such a foundation on moist soil, and if you are planning a 2-story house, then reinforced concrete is the best option.
2. Monolith or tape. Cement-sand mortar with the addition of crushed stone or gravel is poured into previously prepared trenches. To increase strength, reinforcement is added to the pouring. The disadvantage is layer-by-layer pouring, when each subsequent layer is poured after the previous one has completely hardened. The advantages include strength and lower cost compared to reinforced concrete slabs. A shallow strip foundation located under the internal walls (there the temperature is above zero and there is no need to do deep pouring) ensures high strength of the built house.
3. Pile. On soils with close groundwater, a pile-grillage foundation is recommended, when piles driven at points of maximum load are connected to each other by grillages (monolithic concrete pouring with reinforcement inserts).
4. Brick. For masonry, it is necessary to take bricks that are resistant to low temperatures (grade M-200 and higher). Brick foundation slightly inferior in strength tape filling, but costs much less.
5. Aerated concrete. A foundation made of aerated concrete blocks is not used for the load-bearing structure, but it can be used for the foundation for the internal walls of the house. This will reduce the cost of construction. For this purpose, special u-shaped blocks are used, which are convenient to lay.

Slabs are widely used as a foundation in the construction of cottages and country multi-storey buildings

1. Foundation depth. To increase the strength of the house, pouring or masonry is done below the freezing level of the soil. Shallow foundations are acceptable if normal and clayey soils do not have a high groundwater table.
2. Type of material. Number of piles, iron concrete slabs, brick or concrete.

The calculation is carried out according to the formula given for aerated concrete blocks:

• the area of ​​one element is calculated;
• The total volume of the foundation strip is determined.

If concrete and gravel pouring is used, then the amount of materials required to produce 1 cubic meter of concrete is calculated. When choosing a foundation for a house, the decisive factor should not be cheapness, but the suitability of the material to the nature of the soil and climatic conditions. The durability of the future structure depends on this.

Pile foundation in section

Walls

Before laying the walls, waterproofing material is laid on the base. Next, the first layer is laid out. The following rules are observed for it:

• laying on a base with waterproofing is carried out using a mixture of cement and sand, even if subsequent layers are laid with glue;
• before applying the solution, the surface is cleaned and moistened;
• the first aerated concrete “brick” is placed on the corner;
• further laying out of building elements is carried out along a stretched rope (beacon).

The need to lay the first layer on cement mortar is due to the fact that it is almost impossible to make a level base of the plinth, and a mixture of cement and sand allows you to correct this shortcoming. After the first row is laid, you need to wait 3-4 hours for the solution to “set”, and then proceed to the construction of the next layer. Laying the second row is done optionally using glue or mortar. How many rows are required depends on the height of the aerated concrete block taken for masonry and the planned height of the house. The total weight of the block elements is considered the load-bearing load.

Advice to craftsmen: when building a house, there is always a need to cut a block of aerated concrete into smaller pieces. This process is accompanied by the appearance of a large amount of dust, so it is better to carry out cutting outside.

Construction of walls using reinforcement

What is an armored belt and how is it made?

Reinforcement is necessary to increase the strength of walls. The reinforcement is laid in grooves made in the blocks. There are 2 ways to lay metal structures:

• every 4th row;
• every meter of height.

The number of metal rods depends on the width of the block element:

• less than 25 cm – 2 pcs.;
• 25-50 cm – 2;
• more than 50 cm – 3.

The created armored belt increases the strength of the connections and prevents the blocks from “diverging.” In the construction market, in addition to reinforcing rods, builders are offered reinforcing tape. The advantage of the new product is that you don’t need to make grooves to install it - just lay it on top of the laid out row, cover it with an adhesive solution, and you can continue building the house.

Windows and sills

For door or window openings of aerated concrete houses, it is not prohibited to use metal corners or lintels to increase strength, but iron inserts affect heat retention. To install the window, use the following method:

• install temporary wooden frames;
• When laying out the first layer, aerated concrete is reinforced with reinforcement.

Reinforcement of the window sill is undesirable: the proximity of the metal to the surface will attract cold, and it will draw from the window. After construction is completed, the temporary wooden frames are removed and a window or door frame is installed in their place.

Jumpers

Lintels for aerated concrete blocks are needed to make a floor, ceiling or separation between floors. For this use:

1. Monolithic floors. Ready-made foam concrete or concrete slabs are laid on the laid first row of aerated concrete blocks. Are used only for flooring. It is undesirable to use them at other stages of building a house (ceiling, separation of floors) due to an increase in the load-bearing load of the structure.
2. Wooden floor. First, load-bearing beams are installed around the perimeter of the building. U-shaped foam concrete blocks are laid out for them, and then boards are laid on the beams.

Most builders prefer to use wood to create floors because of the ease of processing and the ability to make a floor or lintel with the efforts of 2-3 workers.

Roofing device

What kind of roof will be in a house made of aerated concrete depends on the personal preferences of the owner, specified in construction project. Features of building a house from aerated concrete involve fastening the lower part of the roof to the aerated concrete base using a special belt for rafter legs (mauerlat), located around the perimeter of the upper end. Next, the installation of the roof is carried out taking into account the configuration of the roof and the characteristics of the selected roofing material (metal tiles, slate, corrugated sheets, etc.).

The construction of the “box” of the house ends with laying the roof

How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete and decorate the outside

If the walls are thick or in a warm climate, additional thermal insulation is not needed. The aerated concrete base retains heat well, but the blocks look ugly. Let's consider options for finishing the facade of a house made of aerated concrete:

1. Siding. Covering a house with siding is a popular and cheap option. The siding sheathing is located on fastenings at a short distance from the wall surface. The resulting space allows you to insulate the walls of the house from the outside. It is recommended to make the insulating layer with penoplex or polystyrene foam.
2. Brick. Facing the house with brick will give the aerated concrete building a stylish look and additionally protect the hygroscopic base from moisture penetration.
3. Facade plaster. You can quickly and cheaply finish a facade using facade plaster. The disadvantage of this method is its fragility; it will have to be re-plastered after 3-4 years.
4. Tile. If you line the outer walls with clinker tiles, you won’t have to think about updating the façade for several decades. The decorative material will look beautiful and provide waterproofing.

Decorating the outside of a house from aerated concrete is necessary not only to give the building a stylish look. The aerated concrete base is hygroscopic and without additional protection is destroyed under the influence of external factors.

After plastering the facades, the walls are painted

Interior rough finish

First of all, you need to decide whether aerated concrete needs to be insulated from the inside. If construction work carried out correctly, there is no need to insulate the house inside - the building material retains heat well. Pre-finishing of the home includes:

• conducting communications;
• leveling wall surfaces using plaster;
• laying the floor of the first floor (if floor slabs were used);
• installation of heating devices;
• thermal insulation of the ceiling (you can use any insulation for the ceiling, but experienced builders prefer polystyrene foam or penoplex with waterproofing properties).

After completion of the rough finishing, the aerated concrete house is considered ready for use. All that remains is to carry out cosmetic repairs and move in.

Gypsum plaster dries quickly, which speeds up the process of finishing the house

Construction time for a house made of aerated concrete

Errors when building a house from aerated concrete blocks are rare. The material is easy to use, and if you have construction skills, you can build warm, comfortable housing. The most common mistake is haste, when the desire to build a house faster affects the quality. Let's get acquainted with the regulatory construction deadlines:

1. Foundation. When laying slabs or bricks, you need to wait 2-3 weeks, but a poured foundation gains the required strength for about a year.
2. Building a box. The construction of walls takes from 2 to 5 weeks depending on the size of the building.
3. Installation of the roof will take 1-1.5 months.
4. Conducting communications. This is due to coordination with authorities, collection necessary documents, so it can last more than a month.
5. Exterior finishing and insulation. Depends on the surface area and will range from 3 to 6 weeks.

The timing of interior finishing depends on the wishes of the home owner and the complexity of the work. On average, construction takes 5-6 months (if applicable foundation pouring, then construction is extended by a year). Haste leads to a decrease in the durability of built housing.

Aerated concrete is a convenient material for construction and easy to process. Any craftsman who knows how to work with brick or stone can build a house with his own hands. You just need to follow step-by-step instructions and observe the curing time of the foundation base or mortar in the laid out first row.

To build your own house - embracing this idea entirely in your consciousness, many may become despondent. The idea of ​​building a house in the shortest possible time, with the least amount of effort and cash, at first glance, seems unreal. But this is only at first glance; this idea has its own practical solution - a house made of aerated concrete blocks. About key stages building a house from aerated concrete blocks For those who have decided to do it all with their own hands, the discussion will go below.

The main stages of building a house made of aerated concrete and foam concrete. Video.

What is better: aerated concrete or foam concrete?

Production of aerated concrete. Video.

Aerated concrete is a cellular building material, which is, in fact, an artificial stone with open pores. It is made from cement, quartz sand, silicate, slag and special gas generators. Gypsum and lime can also be added to some types of aerated concrete.

The composition is mixed with water, as a result of the reaction of water and gas-forming agents, gases are released that form pores. Then the composition of the future aerated concrete in the form of a mixture rises like dough and hardens in an autoclave - specialized ovens, at elevated pressure and temperature - aerated concrete is called autoclaved. In the form of large blanks, aerated concrete is cut into blanks - blocks, slabs or panels, additionally processed with steam and dried in electric dryers to obtain the necessary strength.

Technical characteristics of foam concrete. Video.

U foam concrete pores are closed. Foaming agents are used to form a cellular structure in an aqueous solution. The finished solution, to obtain blocks, is poured into molds of different but standard sizes and, most importantly, it hardens and dries under natural conditions.
It is also called non-autoclave. After initial strength gain foam concrete blocks It can already be used, but it may take several years to reach its final strength. In some cases, foam concrete can be poured directly on site using formwork.

The technical specifications are approximately the same. Builders like to work with gas silicate and foam concrete blocks because of their obedience - they lend themselves well to sawing, drilling, planing, and hammering nails and staples into them is easy and simple.
Gas silicate is slightly more durable and can withstand more cycles freezing defrosting. But usually, in any case, these materials need to be additionally protected from the external environment. It is best to use facing bricks. Also one of the differences is that aerated concrete blocks have a more even and smooth surface compared to foam concrete. This means that much less mortar will be used for joints and putty to level the walls.

What are the advantages of building a house from aerated concrete blocks? Video.

Fast construction times
Aerated concrete blocks are large, but quite light, for example, compared to cinder blocks, which makes it possible to build buildings from them (foam concrete blocks) many times faster than from brick or shell rock. If you have the required amount of money, it is possible to build a house from an aerated block, even 2 floors, in six months. But even if the entire amount is not available to build a house in such a short time, construction can be divided into stages. This will not hit your pocket so hard, and clear goals and motivation will allow you, if you don’t earn extra money somewhere, then at least not to waste it on entertainment, but to invest it in your future home.

Savings when purchasing aerated concrete outside of the sales season
To save money on purchasing aerated concrete blocks, it is better to purchase this building material in winter. Winter is not a construction season, therefore, not a sales season for manufacturing companies, and during this period the latter, as a rule, reduce prices or offer various types of bonus programs for buyers.

No need to insulate the facade
Unlike brick or building stone, aerated concrete has a lower temperature, which means it insulates better from the outside environment and maintains indoor temperature well. Therefore, there will be no need for work on insulating the facade of the house, and this will save money.

Invested foundation
Thanks to the fact that this gas silicate blocks have a density from one and a half to four times less than brick, then an overly strong foundation is not needed to build a house. For comparison: a foundation that can support a one-story brick house will easily support 2 floors made of aerated concrete. When building a house from foam blocks, it is allowed to use a lightweight foundation on piles.

The opportunity to build a house with your own hands
A huge advantage of building a house from aerated concrete is the fact that it can be built by one person. The only thing is that individual work will require the involvement of additional physical strength or the services of highly specialized specialists.

The main stages of building a house from aerated concrete blocks.

General recommendation when planning construction for all private houses.
The most economical form of a house, which uses a minimum of building materials, is cubic. That is, a cube - (and ideally a ball) - is a shape with a minimum outer surface area with a maximum internal volume and living area of ​​the house. The minimum external surface area also means the minimum heat loss of the house.
And vice versa, the more wild the imagination in the complex shape of the house, the greater the surface area and heat transfer of the house in winter, a kind of huge radiator. It is better to make a more complex layout inside a cubic house. The more stone walls there are inside, the greater their heat capacity and the temperature inside will be more uniform when ventilated, or they will prevent the house from quickly cooling down in case of an emergency in winter.

Stage 1. Foundation and plinth
Almost any type of foundation is suitable for a house made of aerated concrete blocks. When constructing it, it is necessary to take into account the adhesion of the soil - the foundation must comply with the technical standards of construction on a specific plot of land.

Let's consider two popular foundation options for a house made of aerated concrete - “ monolithic slab"(in principle, the most expensive option) and on stilts (the most economical).

Monolithic slab foundation- such a foundation is usually poured when the house has a basement floor. To do this, a pit is torn at the site of the future house and a concrete pad is poured. For strength, double reinforcement must be present. As for the thickness of the concrete pad, it is at least 25 cm. After this work, walls can be erected ground floor. You can use either ready-made foundation reinforced concrete blocks or by pouring concrete into formwork with a frame made of reinforcement.

For construction foundation on piles First you need to mark the future house. This can be done using wooden pegs and construction string. Then, using an automated installation (this could be a drilling machine for drilling wells or installing electrical poles), you need to drill holes in the ground around the perimeter of the house. It is recommended to drill holes in the ground every 1.5-2 m. Their diameter should be from 25 to 35 cm, and their depth should be about 2 m.

After this, each 50 cm hole is filled with sand and filled with water to compact it. Then you can start digging the foundation. Since such a foundation will rest on piles, there is no need to make a large recess; the indicated 50 cm will be enough. In order for the piles and concrete to become one integral structure, it is recommended to fill them with concrete immediately, without delay. For strengthening, the foundation and piles must be reinforced. The height of the base can be increased with bricks if necessary.

Stage 2. Laying the walls of the first floor
The laying of an aerated concrete block can be carried out using a cement-sand mortar, but always with the addition of lime and a plasticizing additive. The most inexpensive additive can be any liquid soap. But there are also ready-made adhesive mixtures for aerated concrete on sale. Do not be embarrassed when you see the prices for such glue - due to its elasticity, its consumption will be about 5 times less when compared with a DSP solution, and the work will be more accurate. To avoid any kind of gaps in the walls between the blocks, as well as for uniform application of glue and its economy, the latter should be applied using a special notched trowel.

For mounting lintels over windows and doors, a U-block is ideal - aerated concrete shaped blanks for a monolithic stiffening belt. The U-block will allow you to install jumpers over windows and doors much faster and with minimal effort. After the completion of the construction of the walls of the first floor, a reinforced belt must be poured. This is exactly the same foundation, only placed on top of the walls. An armored belt for floor slabs is necessary so that their weight is evenly distributed between all walls.

Stage 3. Ceilings and construction of walls of the second floor.

The overlap between floors is done either using slabs or by pouring concrete in-situ. If we are talking about budget option, you can use used concrete slab floors. As a rule, the price in this case can be even half lower than when purchasing new concrete slabs. The walls of the second floor are erected in exactly the same way as the walls of the first floor. As after the work on the first floor, in order to distribute the weight of the roof evenly, after finishing the construction of the walls of the second floor, it is necessary to fill in the reinforced belt. And only then begin roofing work.

Stage 4. Construction of the roof

ceiling insulation A big mistake of some home customers is to skimp on the last flooring and make it out of boards and insulation. How is the ceiling different from the walls? Despite the fact that warm air, on the contrary, tends upward towards the ceiling more rapidly. This means that it should also be as dense as possible, without cracks, so that there are not even micro drafts - that is, concrete. It is necessary to use reinforced concrete floor slabs, on top of them to make an additional concrete screed of at least 5 cm and, of course, with reinforcement. And from above, insulate it as tightly as possible with insulation at least 15 cm thick. It is most profitable to insulate the ceiling of a non-residential attic. The ideal formula - if you want there to be no heat loss in winter at minus -20 - then you need a layer of 20 cm of concrete and 20 cm of insulation. And of course with the highest quality installation.
There are especially many problems with insulating an attic or just a room without brick walls. I would not advise building an attic at all in the climatic zone of Russia, except for the Crimea and the Caucasus. In central Russia, when temperature drops from + 35 to minus - 35, it is very expensive to maintain a comfortable temperature. Or you will have to insulate it with a very large amount of insulation. And any high-quality thermal insulation materials are much more expensive than foam block walls.

To sum up...

That's basically all key points building a house from aerated concrete blocks. In addition, a few words about facade finishing: for a house made of aerated concrete, again, any type of facade finishing is suitable - “block house” wood, facing brick, various kinds of facade textures, painting, etc.

Advantages of the construction resource:

1. low thermal conductivity – insulating material;
2. easy to build walls;
3. simply processed;
4. the blocks have a clear geometry;
5. the house is easy to build (the work takes 8-9 months);
6. high strength;
7. easy;
8. has soundproofing properties;
9. inexpensive;
10. environmentally friendly;
11. breathes;
12. applicable in combination with thin-layer solutions;
13. accessible.

• absorbs moisture;
• crumbles, is subject to mechanical damage;
• difficult to apply plaster;
• cracks in “weak spots”;
• low bending strength;
• must be stored in a dry place;
• instability to frost;
• the material is prone to corrosion.

How to calculate the required amount of resource

When we build a house from an aerated block with our own hands, we use the following formulas:

• Amount of building material = Total length of walls (m) x Average height of walls (m) x Area of ​​window and door openings (m2) x Cost of aerated block.
• Weight of aerated block, kg = Volume, m3 x Density, kg/m3.

Before you build a house from an aerated block with your own hands, I recommend clearly calculating the required amount of building resources.

It is also worth considering the thermal conductivity indicators for different grades of concrete:

1. D400 = 0.15 W/m °C;
2. D500 = 0.20 W/m °C;
3. D600 = 0.26 W/m °C.

To build the structure, I advise you to use the following tools:

• serrated trowels;
• plane;
• grout board;
• hacksaw;
• cord and level;
• roulette;
• spatula;
• brush;
• bucket.

To build a house from aerated concrete, take into account the fact that the material is prone to cracks (possibly due to unevenness of the underlying surface). The foundation must be perfectly level. The tape error is no more than 10 mm. The best solution is a monolithic structure. It is laid out under the entire building, including the formwork. I recommend strengthening it with two layers of reinforcing mesh.

The best option is high-strength aerated concrete with reinforcing bars of 12 mm each. The distance between them is 30 cm. Such a foundation is suitable for any soil.

Base characteristics

• total thickness – 40 cm;
• 10 cm - into the soil;
• two layers of waterproofing;
• a reinforcing frame is installed - poured with concrete;
• then a solid frame for the formwork.

The concrete mass is laid out at a thickness of 150 mm. I recommend leveling it with a shovel and bayoneting it (let out the air).

It is important to lay out the layers one after another immediately. I do not recommend making long time intervals. After hardening the concrete, formwork is made. At the end, I advise you to fill it with soil.

The structure takes a month to dry.

There are several more options on how to properly start building a house from aerated blocks. It could be:

• tape;
• columnar;
• foundation in the form of a reinforced concrete slab.

Installed on cement-lime mortar. It should be aligned with the horizon. Be sure to lay a waterproofing layer of roofing felt. I can advise you to do the same when pouring the foundation.

Aerated concrete is installed using construction adhesive. Carefully monitor the thickness of the seams. I advise you to tighten the cord in order to control the evenness of the masonry.

Be sure to use 8mm reinforcement in:

• two rods - first row;
• the same amount – every fourth;
• lay out reinforcement under window openings.

When we build a house from an aerated block with our own hands, we use dry masonry - an adhesive mixture based on:

1. sand;
2. cement;
3. with the addition of mineral modifiers.

Apply the material in an even thin layer to the surface of the aerated block and press for a few seconds. The thickness of the glue seam is 2 mm.

The structures are laid out on as flat a surface as possible. load-bearing walls. I advise you to make the roof flat. Installation steps:

• installation of an insulator and laying of a reinforcing belt;
• rafter system;
• attic insulation;
• laying roofing material.

ATTENTION!

Aerated concrete floors are manufactured at the factory over several months, so I recommend taking care of this in advance, even before construction begins.

• 3-4 people will be needed to lay the floors;
• It’s better if the slabs are equipped with a tongue-and-groove system - in the end you simply tighten them together with a clamp;
• the edges are sealed with concrete masonry with a thin layer of mortar;
• in the corners and at the joints of structures - tying reinforcement.

After the walls are erected, you can begin installing windows and doors in the appropriate openings. I do not recommend laying metal frames or brick structures in ceilings - you can damage the fragile aerated concrete.

I note that the walls do not require additional insulation. For finishing, choose vapor- and gas-permeable mineral plasters.

It is better to lay vapor-permeable waterproofing on the outside so that the blocks do not get wet again in the rain. The finish “lives” for 5-8 years, so after this time period it will have to be adjusted.

Building a house from aerated blocks is an economically feasible procedure that can be done with your own hands. The construction material is cheap, environmentally friendly, accessible, has good heat and sound insulation properties, so no additional “protective” resources are required during operation. I advise you to take into account the fragility of aerated concrete and its tendency to form cracks in “weak spots”.

When building a house from aerated concrete with your own hands, I recommend preferring strip monolithic foundation, carefully monitor the reinforcing belts, level the previous row before laying the next one, and also install a flat roof.

On the outside, I advise you to finish the structure with vapor-permeable mineral plaster, which should be renewed every five years.

Cellular concrete has been used for a long time, but with the development of technology, the scope of application is expanding. If used to be a house Although buildings were rarely built from aerated concrete, today this material is used in 15-20% of new buildings. They are building both temporary residence dachas and capital houses. Everything is explained by the availability of the material at a price, good thermal characteristics, easy and quick installation.

Foundation for a house made of foam blocks

As you know, foam concrete blocks are lightweight. On the one hand, this is good: the work is easier and the foundation for such a building is required with a lower load-bearing capacity, and, therefore, cheaper. But, on the other hand, when movements of the foundation occur, the walls, due to their low weight, cannot “press down” the processes like a heavier brick or compensate for them like wood. Which means that the requirements for the foundation for an aerated concrete house are increased: even minor miscalculations lead to the appearance of cracks, which are very expensive to “treat.” Therefore, it is better not to save on the project: it will cost more.

What type of foundation to use

What kind of foundations are made for a house made of aerated concrete? On soils not prone to heaving, this is usually done. The depth is below the freezing level of the soil and nothing else. Due to its design, the reinforcement of the tape will compensate for all heaving loads that arise.

If the depth of soil freezing is 2 meters or more, the strip foundation becomes too expensive. In this case, when soils with normal bearing capacity occur at this level, aerated concrete is made under the house. IN in this case You can’t do without a grillage: it compensates for uneven movements that often occur on a pile foundation: one pile has risen more, the other less. Without a grillage, this will lead to cracks, so installing one for walls made of this material is mandatory.

The most expensive, but also the most resistant to damage is . It is placed on soils with low bearing capacity - peat bogs, fine-grained loose sand. It may turn out that it is cheaper than a strip foundation at a depth of more than 2 meters. In this case, the slab is more appropriate if, due to geological features, pile foundation impossible.

Prefabricated foundations are not recommended for this type of material. Most of the problems arise with houses made of aerated concrete on foundations made of FBS, building blocks or bricks. Due to the fact that they themselves have a tendency to form cracks, in tandem with cellular concrete this turns into a serious problem: too many and often cracks appear. Therefore, do not use prefabricated foundations.

And once again we draw your attention to the fact that only a designer with the results of geological studies of the site can answer with a 100% guarantee what kind of foundation is needed for a house made of aerated concrete.

With or without base

Another feature of aerated concrete is its high hygroscopicity. As humidity increases, it loses its heat-insulating properties, and prolonged exposure to water can lead to partial destruction of the material. Therefore, a house made of aerated concrete must be placed on a plinth, making several layers of cut-off waterproofing. And this is in addition to all measures for waterproofing the foundation, which are also determined by geology and groundwater levels.

Aerated concrete house: laying blocks

It all starts with preparatory activities:

• Checking the horizontalness of the foundation. If there are deviations of more than 30 mm, they must be eliminated. If there are small humps, it is easier to cut them off and fill the holes with mortar. If the surface is too uneven, additional formwork is installed, the surface is filled with concrete and leveled. Just keep in mind that the minimum thickness of the concrete layer is at least 3 cm, and for leveling you need to either add plasticizers that improve spreading, or treat the solution with a concrete vibrator. Work can continue when the concrete gains 50% strength, which is 7-9 days at a temperature of +20°C, and 14-20 days at lower temperatures.
• Cut-off waterproofing is installed. First, it is coated with bitumen mastic, and roll waterproofing is rolled out on top. And it’s better not roofing felt. It is, of course, cheap, but in its modern design it is ineffective and very short-lived. When the tapes meet, one overlaps the other by at least 15 cm.

At the preparatory stage, everything must be done with maximum diligence. The smoother the base, the easier the laying will be. We have already written about the importance of waterproofing: if you want a house made of aerated concrete to be warm, make sure it is dry.

Rules for laying aerated concrete blocks

Laying aerated concrete can begin on top of the cut-off waterproofing. It is carried out according to the same rules as brick: with horizontal ligation of rows. This means that the vertical seam of the bottom block is overlapped by the body of the block lying on top. The wall looks more beautiful if the seam is in the middle of the block, but the minimum offset is 10 cm.

Special glue is used for laying gas blocks. That's what it's called - for aerated concrete. It is applied in a thin layer of 1-2 mm using a special tool - a carriage with a serrated edge. Why is it advisable to lay just such a layer? Firstly, the glue is expensive, and secondly, it is a cold bridge, since its thermal conductivity is much higher than that of a gas block. Therefore, the specified thickness is optimal: it ensures a strong connection and minimal heat loss.

Tool

For uniform placement of glue there are branded carriages. They are a box into which up to a bucket of solution is loaded. Laying aerated concrete blocks with your own hands using a carriage is shown in the following video.

Carrying it up and down the walls is a dubious pleasure and is justified only for large volumes, when the entire bucket can be rolled out along the wall at one time. Therefore, when independently building an aerated concrete house, simpler devices are often used - small manual carriages (look at the photo). As you can see, it looks like a scoop and is easy to make with your own hands from a piece of galvanized steel. The width is equal to the width of your block (exactly up to a millimeter, maybe 1-2 mm less). Teeth are cut along the edge (you can use a grinder), and a handle is attached. In principle, you can get by with a trowel and a large notched trowel, but the work will not be as convenient.

Second necessary tool- saw. There is also a special one, but foam concrete can be cut perfectly with an ordinary handsaw with a well-sharpened tooth.

Carriage and saw - basic tools

You also need a piling device. According to the construction technology of aerated concrete, reinforcement is laid in every 4th row. For these rods, grooves are made in the body of the block. For this there is special tool- cutting edge on the handle with a rest for the second hand. You can also do something similar yourself.

Devices for transferring blocks are also needed. There are blocks with cutouts for arms, but they are more expensive, and the voids will then have to be filled with mortar. To transfer blocks with smooth edges, there are special pliers that work due to gravity.

In addition to all this, you need a container for mixing glue, a paint ladle, a mallet to level the blocks, a brush to clean off dust, a building level, a cord, a set of sandpapers or a special grater to level the surfaces. That's all the necessary tool. There is another interesting device - an angle that allows you to cut at right angles. In the photo it is near the helmet, but you can do without it if you wish.

Laying aerated concrete block

The technology for laying aerated concrete is simple: glue is applied in a more or less even layer to the bottom surface. Recommended layer thickness is 1-2 mm. With this application using a carriage, there is no excess glue, and it is rarely squeezed out. Glue is also applied to the side surface of the adjacent block. This can be done using a trowel, spatula, or directly with a carriage. The excess is also removed with the serrated side of the tool. When applying glue, try not to let it flow over the edges of the block: it is difficult to remove it from a white surface.

All of the above applied to masonry with special glue. Some people use cement-sand mortar to save money. You can’t lay it out in a thin layer, so there will be excess. They can be removed with the edge of a tool, but the masonry still looks untidy. It is better not to talk about the thermal technical parameters of such a wall at all: the cold bridges are very wide.

Before installation, the block is dusted: take a brush and go over all surfaces. If the weather is dry and hot, the block is sprayed with water. You can apply it with a wide brush, or with a spray bottle. The cleaned and moistened block is lifted and placed on the glue, close to the already installed one. Using a mallet, knocking on the clean side surface of the installed block, achieve the required seam thickness of 1.5-3 mm. Excess glue that is squeezed out is removed with a spatula.

Now we take a level and level the block on a vertical and horizontal surface: we knock on the appropriate places with a mallet. It may take some serious effort. We select squeeze-out glue, if available.

This operation is repeated over and over again. Simple but monotonous work. But you can build a house from aerated concrete with your own hands without any construction skills. The main thing is to follow technology.

Useful devices and useful improvements to masonry technology in the next video. People build a house out of aerated concrete for themselves with their own hands; they do everything efficiently, but quickly, using interesting devices. The solution is applied using a modified notched trowel. Small plates are attached to the sides; they prevent the solution from draining outside the block. The design is shaped like the letter “P”, but with short “legs” and a wide “back”; a spatula handle sticks out from the middle.

The structure is placed on a block, glue is poured along the wide side. The edges or the handle are pulled along the block. At the same time, glue is squeezed out from under the teeth. It is immediately distributed evenly. Using the same device, glue is applied to the side, but not of the installed block, but of the block being installed. The laying speed with this method is high.

The device for transferring the block is very interesting. This is a metal strip with two welded handles. Of course, each time it is screwed with two self-tapping screws to the block, but it is more convenient to carry than just holding the edges. In general, a useful video, they just align the blocks “by eye.” This “trick” is hardly worth adopting, but otherwise the method of laying aerated concrete blocks in the video is very good.

Laying the first row of aerated concrete

During any construction, it is very important to correctly set the first row: we will then focus on it when building walls. That’s why we do everything very carefully, double-checking it several times. We place the first row of aerated concrete blocks on a cement-sand mortar, all the rest - on glue. Attention! The side surface is coated with glue: these seams should be normal - no more than 1-2 mm.

The corner blocks are laid out first. Very often their outer edge protrudes beyond the base. Firstly, the base will then be further insulated and finished, and this will significantly increase its thickness. A wall hanging over the plinth not only looks more organic, it also reduces the jamming of the plinth, and first of all, its junction with the wall, and for an aerated concrete house this is very important.

First of all, using a laser plane builder or a water level, we find the highest angle of the base. We start laying with it. The whole point of the first row is to align the blocks in a horizontal plane by varying the thickness of the mortar. During the preparation stage, the largest differences were eliminated, but the surface was still unlikely to be ideal. In order to make it easier to lay aerated concrete blocks in the future, the surface will be leveled.

Watch the video to find out how to find the highest corner of the foundation.

Therefore, at the highest corner of the solution we place the minimum amount. Lay out a layer of 0.5-1 cm, level it. We place the first block so that its outer edges protrude at least 50 cm beyond the base. As they wrote, this protrusion is not necessary, but it solves many problems, and, most importantly, it closes the joint with the base.

We take a level and, tapping with a mallet, level it in the horizontal and vertical planes. At the adjacent corner we perform the same operation, only the height of the block is adjusted according to the first one and for this we use a water level. To make work more convenient, the level flasks can be mounted on even boards of the same thickness. By installing one flask on one corner block, you can use the second to adjust the height of the other.

We repeat the same operation on the remaining blocks. One subtlety: we transfer the level only from the first block. This way the error will be smaller. After all the corner blocks are set (they are called beacons), a cord is stretched along their outer edge. Moreover, the cord marks the top edge of the block and all the others are aligned along it. Pull the self-tapping screw screwed into the block: it turns easily and holds well. You can screw strips into which self-tapping screws are screwed onto the blocks.

It is advisable to lay the masonry from two corners, moving towards the middle. This way there is a better chance of avoiding distortions, which then have to be leveled by tearing off the already installed blocks.

Second and subsequent rows

Upon completion of laying the row, take sandpaper, a plane, and a building level and go along the entire perimeter, removing too large differences in heights. This - important point, which allows you to consume a minimum of glue. But minimal stitching isn't everything. If the height of each row is not equalized, local stress points will form in the wall, which, under minimal loads, can cause cracks to appear. Therefore, do not skip this stage.

Working with sandpaper is not very convenient; there is a special grater for this purpose. She doesn't clog up like that. So, everything is leveled. Then they take a brush and walk around the perimeter again, sweeping away the dust. This stage should also not be skipped: the presence of dust significantly reduces the adhesion of the glue to the blocks.

All this in order to withstand the recommended layer of glue of 1-2 mm. The geometry of even the best blocks still has a run-up. Let the difference be 1 mm, but with such an amount of glue it is significant. Therefore, everything is aligned until it coincides completely.

Hired teams often skip this stage and add glue up to 5 mm or more in violation of the technical process. But such houses turn out to be cold, and the consumption of expensive glue is enormous. Average glue consumption per cubic meter:

• smooth blocks - 1.2 bags;
• with tongue and groove - 1 bag.

Laying the second and subsequent rows of aerated concrete blocks also begins from the corner, only the corner block is positioned so that the seam is offset. Now the adhesive composition is applied to all surfaces. The technology for laying an aerated concrete block is described above.

Reinforcement of aerated concrete

To increase the building's resistance to forces arising from soil heaving, longitudinal reinforcement of the walls is performed. To do this, longitudinal grooves are cut into the laid row of blocks using a special device. For thick external ones, two grooves are made for two rods; for jumpers up to 200 mm thick, one thread is used. They should be at a distance of at least 6 cm from the edge of the block. When cutting two grooves, it is more convenient to maintain the distance by placing a board: one groove on one side, the second on the other.

When the grooves are ready, dust is swept out of them with a brush. Then they take 8 mm reinforcement and pre-lay it into prepared grooves. They arrange it so that there are solid rods in the corners: they are simply bent in the right place. The joints of the reinforcement should be located approximately in the middle of the block, but not in the corners of the building or at the junction of the walls.

One rod is placed on top of the other, laid side by side. The overlap should be 10-20 cm. To prevent the ends of the reinforcement from sticking out in the openings (doors and windows), small pieces can be bent by making small grooves under them.

When everything is laid out, take out the rod, moisten the groove with water and fill it halfway with glue or concrete mortar. And it is necessary to clean and wet it, otherwise the solution will not adhere to the block material and the reinforcement will be of no use. We embed the rod into the glue, then we use a spatula along the grooves, removing excess and leveling the layer.

Such reinforcement is carried out in the first row, and then in every fourth. With regular dressing, even if the foundation settles unevenly, a house made of aerated concrete will stand normally.

But this is not all reinforcement. Above the window and door block, as well as in the last row of the floor, more reinforcement elements are required, but more serious, with 4 rods connected in unified system. There are special U-shaped blocks for this. They are placed as the last row under the ceiling of the second floor or under the roof slab. One side wall of the block is thick, the second is thinner. The thick wall is turned into the street, the thin wall into the room.

A continuous reinforcing belt is knitted from 4 reinforcement bars with a diameter of 10-12 mm. It is knitted according to the same principle as in strip foundation(you can read it). An example of a reinforcing frame is in the video.

The finished elements are placed in the cavity of the block and poured. After the concrete reaches 50% strength, the floors can be laid or the roof truss system can be installed.

Reinforcement of window openings of aerated concrete houses

According to the technology, if a house made of aerated concrete has a window opening wider than 1.8 meters, the penultimate row of aerated concrete blocks is additionally reinforced. To do this, two longitudinal grooves are made, which are at least 0.5 m longer than the window opening. To be on the safe side, you can make the projections larger - up to 1 meter - and reinforce them under each window opening.

The technology is similar to the wall one: two grooves into which the rod is placed are filled with glue or mortar. The last row of blocks is installed on top of the reinforcement, and subsequently the window frame is placed on top of it.

The general principles of working with foam concrete blocks are described in the following video; the principles of reinforcing window and door openings are also covered

How to winter without heating

Often it is not possible to build a house from aerated concrete in one season; as a result, the box - with or without a roof - goes into the winter without heating. To prevent cracks from appearing in the walls after wintering, a whole range of measures is necessary:

• If groundwater is high, it is necessary to make a drainage system before the onset of cold weather.
• Waterproofing and external insulation of the foundation and plinth (for the middle strip of EPS with a thickness of at least 100 mm).
• Insulated
• Insulating the floor in the basement.

All these measures are designed to prevent freezing of the soil under the foundation and, in particular, under the basement floor. If the soil under the slab freezes, it will begin to bulge in the most unloaded place - in the middle. If brick and other heavier materials simply press down the bulging, then the gas silicate does not have enough mass. Therefore, all the measures listed above are mandatory.

In addition to them, in cold weather it is necessary to maintain a positive temperature in the basement - at least to heat a couple of potbelly stoves. If there is no way to organize heating, you need to load fallen leaves into the basement in the fall. The layer should preferably be large - at least 20 cm. In combination with thermal insulation, it will prevent the slab from freezing. Otherwise, it will bulge, resulting in the walls cracking - under tensile loads, a gas silicate wall cracks not at the seams, like a brick wall, but along the “body” of the block. It looks scary, although with a normal foundation (if it remains intact) everything is not so scary and with heating in all subsequent seasons this may not happen again.

Today there are many materials for building walls. In addition, construction technology is always being improved, which ultimately leads to the emergence of new building materials with more favorable prices and performance characteristics. Thus, society has gradually reached the aerated block, which really has a lot to please.

The first advantages of this material are noticeable even at the design stage. We’ll talk about all the pros and cons, as well as how to build a structure from aerated concrete blocks with your own hands in this article.

Advantages and Disadvantages

Aerated concrete blocks have a number of their own characteristics, both positive and not so good. The thing is that the material is affordable, anyone can buy it, and you need to work well with it so that the house can stand freely for many years.

Photos of aerated block houses can often be seen in social networks, since this material is really in great demand. It's all about its advantages, and these include:

• strength;
• easy to use;
• durability;
• economy;
• thermal insulation qualities.

Many people doubt the strength of the aerated block, but there is no reason to doubt it at all. Material according to appearance resembles a brick, only in larger sizes. It is a dense structure, which, with proper care, does not collapse for a long time, the warranty period is from thirty years.

Most often the material is used for the construction of temporary buildings, as well as commercial premises. Many people wonder what is better than a foam block or a gas block for a home, but as practice shows, in terms of quality there are no complaints about either option.

But this does not mean that the material is not suitable for the construction of residential buildings. It's all about care and proper construction, but multi-storey building It is not recommended to build from aerated block.

The material does not crumble, which makes it really convenient to work with; it is also lightweight, you can freely lift it with your hands and build walls. Building a house from aerated block is a pleasure, according to experienced builders.

As for durability, the gas block is truly durable with proper care. It all depends on the weather conditions where the building is planned to be built. Without protection from water, a house will serve faithfully for decades, but if you protect the structure from moisture, it can last for centuries. It is recommended to carry out the procedure during the construction stage.

Gozoblok is distinguished by its economy both in the purchase of material and in its further use. This material is considered one of the cheapest, since its production uses less complex technology.

In addition, there are many suppliers of material on the market who compete well with each other, which ultimately leads to low cost of the material. In addition, you can save a lot on heating costs. Practice has shown that owners of houses built from other materials pay much more for heating.

This is because the gas block has excellent heat-insulating qualities. It works on both sides - it does not let out warm air from the inside and lets the cold in from the outside.

A wall made of aerated block must be improved, since under the influence of weather conditions all the thermal insulation benefits will disappear over time. Experts recommend thinking about this at the design stage.

Stage-by-stage construction of a house from aerated concrete blocks

As already mentioned, building a house from an aerated block is not difficult, and basic construction skills are quite enough. When building yourself, it is recommended to use the aerated concrete block calculator for your home.

The design of such a building is not very different from buildings made of other materials and includes the following stages of work:

• site selection;
• design;
• foundation laying;
• walling;
• finishing.

When choosing a site, it is important to pay attention to the soil. In general, aerated block walls themselves are not heavy, so special requirements no to the soil.

However, we should not forget that this is still a house and land plot need to be selected suitable for construction. Most often, such houses are built on dacha areas, but they can also be found in cities - in both cases this is acceptable.

At the design stage, you need to figure out the area of ​​the house and decide how many rooms there will be. It is not recommended to build huge buildings, although the foundation allows this.

Maintaining a building in the required condition is much more difficult, and this also complicates communications, which are also considered at the design stage. It is also better to immediately calculate how many gas blocks are needed for the house.

It is better to take this stage seriously, as you can easily calculate the number of options to use, and also consider various options savings or choose ready-made options projects of houses made of aerated blocks.

Laying the foundation will require a little more knowledge as well as effort. This stage is considered the most difficult and is no exception when working with gas-block houses.

It is recommended to seek help from professionals who will help you build a truly reliable foundation, which is able to hold the structure for many years, or immediately order a house made of aerated blocks on a turnkey basis.

Building walls is not difficult. A one-story house made of aerated concrete can be built in a matter of time. It is important to maintain the evenness of the masonry so that there are no inclinations. Since aerated concrete blocks themselves are lightweight, putting them into one structure is not a difficult task.

Basic construction skills will be required to complete these steps. Be sure to take into account the connectors in the walls for windows and doors, ventilation and communications, so that later you do not have to destroy the newly built wall.

Finishing work is considered the most expensive task imaginable in the construction of aerated block houses. Interior decoration can be made of any materials, but it is important to remember the fear of water blocks. Moisture can come not only from the street, but also from inside the room, so you need to think about protection from moisture at the finishing stage.

In summing up, it is important to note the latter - you need to understand which is the best aerated block for construction. Today there are many manufacturers who can offer many options for the same building material. Therefore, be sure to contact the manufacturer to find out the differences, as well as all the advantages of one block from another.

Photos of aerated block houses

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